There Is No Decaf in Puerto Rico

In the sky and in the water, La Parguera

Mangrove islands off La Parguera, Puerto Rico, Laura Motta

We got on the boat in La Parguera, on Puerto Rico's south coast, but I could see the balloon for miles before we got there, hovering high above the tree line. I snapped photos, all of them blurry from the movement of the rental car.

"It's a blimp," I said to A_____. "An airship, I think that's the…