New Orleans Next Time, and the Time After
You have not seen it all in the Crescent City
When I start daydreaming about trips to New Orleans, I know something is… happening.
Either I am bored or feeling a bit flat or underwhelmed or out of ideas. I need sweaty heat, wrought iron, oysters, palmettos, live music that starts at 1:00 a.m., and that coffee shop with the back patio that overlooks the cemetery. (Sacred Grinds on Canal in Mid-City; tagline: Coffee to wake the dead!)
Mostly, I need space to think in a city that gives you a lot to think about. Bonus points for gumbo.
I keep running to-do lists for my favorite places — cities and countries where I always hope to come back, whether in one year or ten or twenty. I’ve made it to New Orleans a half-dozen times in the last decade and if my current mood is any indication, this pattern is decidedly holding.
I’ve done most of the top line visitor stuff. Here’s what I always do in New Orleans, and what hopefully comes next.
Every Single Time, Almost
Preservation Hall, enough said; you used to be able to roll up right before the show and get tickets but advance reservations are very much recommended these days
Voodoo Authentica, for your spiritual needs
French Quarter Visitor Center, US national park site that is specifically targeted for defunding under the current administration; go and show your support
Frenchmen Art & Books, lovely shop with a good local interest section
Louisiana Music Factory, they have all the New Orleans music you’re looking for but also posters and in-store concerts
Trashy Diva, I always say I’m not going to buy anything in this vintage-ish dress shop and well…
Bacchanal, foolproof
WWOZ’s Music Calendar, check it when you arrive, go see a bunch of live music, rinse, repeat
A List for Next Time, Maybe or Maybe Not
Chandelier Bar at The Four Seasons, why haven’t I done this yet?
Ursuline Convent Museum, spooky and Catholic (see also: the history of the French “Casket Girls” and also the tangentially related YA series, The Casquette Girls, by NOLA author Alys Arden)
Our Lady of Guadalupe Chapel, for the altars
Ayu Bakehouse, we all need a bakery
The Columns, another thing I should have done two years ago, though I have had oysters and steak tartare at its sister restaurant, Fives, and I enjoyed it
Degas House, yes that Degas
Free People of Color Museum, the only museum in the country dedicated to this historic community
St. Roch Shrine, for the collection of votives but make sure it’s open first!
Bar Redux, seems good, dive-y?
Scriptura, Magazine Street stationery shop yes please
The Flagpole, always must have coffee
Anything I’m missing? (Especially new restaurants — I am always looking for new + good in that category.) Slam that comment button and let me know.
Assisted Daydreaming: New Orleans Onscreen, on the Page, and in Your Earbuds
The Moviegoer, Walker Percy
The House on Coliseum Street, Shirley Ann Grau
Coming Through Slaughter, Michael Ondaatje
The Gulf: The Making of an America Sea, Jack E. Davis
The Awakening, Kate Chopin
James Booker, The Lost Paramount Tapes
The Neville Brothers, Fiyo on the Bayou
Trombone Shorty, For True
Big Freedia, 3rd Ward Bounce
Preservation Hall Jazz Band, That’s It!
Dwayne Dopsie and the Zydeco Hellraisers, Bon Ton
Girls Trip
When the Levees Broke: A Requiem in Four Acts
A Streetcar Named Desire
Interview With a Vampire
I love this! I was in New Orleans for 2 weeks last year, and I am currently planning my next trip. My favorite restaurants were Arabella Casa Di Pasta (get the meatballs!), Ruby Slipper in the Marigny (in a former bank that was supposedly robbed by Bonnie and Clyde) and Bearcat CBD. I also highly recommend NOLA Vibe Yoga at Hotel Peter and Paul. Even if you're not big on yoga, you can spend the whole hour staring at the stunning architecture.
I still have never been, but damn I love that airport.